Cindy Pawlcyn opened her eclectic American cafe in 1983. In recent years, she’s become one of Napa Valley’s leading restaurateurs, adding Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen and Go Fish, both just north, in St. Helena. Judging by the overflowing crowds at Mustards Grill, Ms. Pawlcyn hasn’t spread her talents too thin. We arrived during the lunch rush, and there was over an hour wait for a table. Thankfully, there was relief at the bar, where the patrons were friendly, and even shared their food.
Mustards Grill is named for the vivid yellow plant blooms in late winter. Mustard is grown between grape vines to supply nitrogen to the soil and prevent erosion.
A fountain in front of the entrance is a key part of Mustards’ whimsical decor. Equally funky wine bottle and plant ceramics reside inside.
No Northern California restaurant worth visiting would be complete without good bread. Mustards Grill serves a crusty loaf with butter.
To drink, we had fresh squeezed lemonade ($3) and a Cock & Bull ginger beer ($4) that provided a tasty burn.
To start, we split seared sesame-crusted ahi ($12.50) served on crunchy, house-made sesame crackers. Drizzled with wasabi cream and topped with julienned red bell peppers, the flavor really popped.
The couple sitting next to us at the bar was kind enough to share their onion rings. They weren’t greasy or heavy, more like fried onion whisps.
After tasting the Mongolian pork chop ($27.95), I can see why Mustards Grill has sold nearly one million orders. The chop is luscious, cooked medium rare, really juicy, slathered with a tangy sauce that Gourmet’s Colman Andrews claims to include hoisin, soy sauce, sesame oil, sherry and rice vinegar. Paired with sweet and sour red cabbage, plus a mound of mashed potatoes, it was a serious plate of food.
My half-slab of baby back ribs ($22.95) was overcooked, a little dry. Thankfully, redemption came in the form of sensational horseradish cole slaw (studded with golden raisins) and slabs of crisp-skinned sweet potatoes.
Any restaurant that is resourceful enough to survive almost a quarter-century is bound to develop signature dishes. With those gaudy sales figures, the pork chop clearly qualifies as Mustards’ signature entree. It was easy to figure out the signature dessert: their “famous” lemon-lime pie ($7.50).
Brown sugar meringue was indeed “ridiculously tall,” taller than the length of my hand, but the lemon-lime pie’s citrusy filling was a little too sweet.
Restaurants don’t survive for 24 years without good reason. After eating at Mustards Grill, it’s obvious Cindy Pawlcyn understands the appetites of Napa Valley diners. There are more and more dining options in the area, but given Mustards’ combination of strong flavors, large portions and serious buzz, Cindy Pawlcyn’s first restaurant is still worth visiting.
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