Migrant is a modern pan-Asian restaurant and lounge from former Star Noodle and Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop chef Sheldon Simeon. For his latest concept, Chef Simeon serves “Modern Local Cuisine” at Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa.

Migrant’s welcoming motto is “Come My House. Eat!” The aloha fueled concept honors the Hawaiian pineapple and sugar cane field workers who migrated from China, Portugal, Japan, and the Philippines, creating a new “local food.” Simeon has a number of creative dishes to enjoy while overlooking the pool, palm trees and Pacific Ocean. None stood out more than his French Onion Tsukemen ($26).

This signature culinary mash-up at Migrant combines strengths of Japanese dipping ramen (tsukemen) and French onion soup. Locally produced Iwamoto Natto ramen noodles, which carry serious tensile strength, get a fitting sendoff. Simeon tosses the noodles in garlic oil, showers them with grated Gruyere cheese and serves them in a bowl. The capper: two squares of tender 12-hour braised short rib. A smaller bowl of Kula French onion soup, bolstered with veal stock and strands of molten Maui onion, are designed for dipping. The soup coats the noodles beautifully and helps to take the flavors of this dish to another level.