“Market Driven” Fennel

Fennel Los Angeles

Photos by Tara Maxey


This weekend Matt roasted a pig. Every time an order comes in for one of these big guys, I see a spark pass through the better half of Heirloom-LA. It’s subtle, but it’s there. If you should ever ask Matt what his favorite thing to do is, he may or may not jostle for a quick answer, but the truth of the matter is held in the swift control of his butchery. This is not the stuff of a Herschell Gordon Lewis film, but rather one of respect and precision and patience that starts with the integrity of the farmer and continues with a skillful breaking down and fabricating of the pork before it goes in for a slow roast of at least 12 hours. The result is crisp and succulent and even awe-inspiring as guests watch the host effortlessly cut through a pig perfectly in tact yet unencumbered by any bones. It’s a beautiful sight and everyone enjoys it, most of all, as you now know, the chef who made it with much practiced skill and love.

Fennel Los Angeles
Marinade for a whole pig is limitless, but we had come across some firm and unblemished fennel at the market which had recently been cut as evidenced by its white roots that hadn’t the time to oxidize. Providing a mild, slightly sweet flavor echoing notes of licorice and anise, Matt thinly sliced the fennel bulb and some garlic, and tossed in the fronds to make a marinade rub for the internal recesses of the pig. This procedure can be done with virtually any meat.

If kept refrigerated and in a glass of water that is changed every four days, the stalks can be reserved for up to a month and used as a lovely bed for a platter, or roast them as you would asparagus. These stalks work as a substitute for lemongrass and are great steeped in the cream for a panna cotta or paired with apples for a refreshing sorbet.

The fronds are a delicate herb that are usually associated with fish but are wonderful in salads or rice. On their own, they make a pretty garnish.

Fennel Los Angeles
The bulb makes a quick side dish if you cut it into wedges, toss in olive oil, salt and pepper and throw on the grill or roast at 500F until caramelized. Serve as is or finish with honey or herbs and white balsamic vinegar. You can make a big batch of fennel puree and serve it cold as a dip with grilled bread and vegetables, or you can thin it with a little olive oil and vinegar for a vegan sandwich spread. A dab of fennel puree is a hearty surprise served under anything roasted, or make it your first course soup by thinning it out water or stock. Don’t underestimate the fennel. It will remain at its prime through the fall so you may be seeing it in all the pigs Matt makes until then.

FENNEL PUREE

Yield: 1 Pint

3 fennel bulbs, chopped

1 white onion, chopped

5 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

Olive oil

1 cup white wine

About 2 cups stock or milk or water

Salt and pepper to taste

Thinly coat a large sauté pan with olive oil and allow to become hot over high heat. Toss in fennel, onion, garlic, salt and pepper, and cook until caramelized, stirring frequently.

Add white wine and let it come to a simmer. Next add just enough remaining liquid to cover the fennel and then slowly simmer until tender.

Strain liquid into a bowl and reserve. Place fennel mixture into a blender and add enough liquid to puree until smooth. Taste for seasonings.

Tara Maxey is the sweet side of Heirloom LA, with Matthew Poley handling the savory side.

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Blog Comments

Great post Tara – I had that pig! Ran into you & Matt at the HFM the next day. Divine!!!! Trying to come up w/ reasons to order one. Did I mention – DIVINE!

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