A last second call to arms from Street Gourmet LA founder Bill Esparza led us to Ensenada and Congreso Ensenada Gastronomica, a conference that convened at Hotel Coral, where top chefs from across Mexico converged for a full program of cooking demos. We had a little over an hour for lunch, and it was inevitable that we’d end up at La Guerrerense for Sabina Bandera’s increasingly legendary seafood tostadas, but there had to be at least a couple new stops, and when Esparza asked, “Do you want to try my favorite fish taco spot?” It took about two seconds to say Hell yeah to Los Originales Tacos de Pescado.

A blue sign touts an image of a fish in a toque eating a fish taco. These fish are driven to cannibalism for good reason. Juana Ortiz Bardon has presided over the tiny blue booth in downtown Ensenada for about 20 years.

Juana Ortiz Bardon has been a welcome sight for fish taco lovers for years.

Her stand’s fish tacos (12 pesos ~ $1) feature cazon, a small shark known in English as dogfish. Unlike Baja-style fish tacos in L.A., which are mostly fried in vegetable or canola oil, Ensenada cooks have no qualms about cooking with manteca (lard). Better yet, she fries firm, juicy fillets twice, until the light batter achieves a golden, crisp coating.

Fish arrives undressed on a warm corn tortilla. Dress however you like.

As Esparza points out every single time we eat tacos together, “No naked tacos!” He literally won’t let me take a photo unless it’s sporting salsa, cabbage and/or crema. I dressed my bar-raising taco with pico de gallo, a drizzle of chunky, bright red salsa, rough cut cabbage and a surprise gob of queso fresco.

Condiments include several salsas, which change daily, and of course crema and crunchy cabbage.

Chile de árbol salsa provides a vivid jolt to any taco.

They also stock a plate with brittle roasted chiles de arbol that easily crumble atop tacos, accentuating texture and flavor.