If strip malls are known entities in L.A., are food courts the next frontier? The food court in the back corner of Rowland Heights’ Pacific Plaza doesn’t have much buzz, but I still wanted to eat at almost every stall. The space houses yellow walls, red lanterns, wood tables, and photo menus. Little Shanghai Restaurant has been located in this food court for the past five years and shares space with Duck Queen, O’Heavy Noodles, Health Station 2 and Four Seasons Steak House. I’ll definitely be back for duck and noodles from a Chinese restaurant with a name that sounds oddly Irish. In the meantime, I’d recommend Little Shanghai’s sheng jian bao, stir-fried rice cakes, and an intensely porcine dish of Stir Pork Liver and Kidney.
Little Shanghai normally serves one pig organ or the other, but my server was willing to mix the pair. Chunks of liver and thin scored kidneys both arrived blanketed with a dark reduced sauce of soy, sugar and water. The chef topped the pile of pork parts with scallions and served them on a bed on crunchy raw bean sprouts that soaked up the sauce and pork jus. Too often, pork livers and kidneys are overcooked until chalky, but Little Shanghai’s organs suffered no such fate.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.