On my first trip to Maui in 2012, Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop was one of my favorite stops for comfort food and pie. At that point, talented Hilo native Sheldon Simeon was in the kitchen and also steered the nearby Star Noodle Kitchen. Chef Simeon later advanced to the finals on “Top Chef” Season 10, which was set in Seattle. He is now cooking at Migrant Maui in Wailea. Three years later, I wasn’t sure what to expect after his departure. Thankfully, Leoda’s is still going strong. Current executive chef Marcus Whisenant has even added several intriguing new dishes, including a standout Fried Chicken & Waffle.

When I saw Chicken and Waffles ($15) on the menu, I was wary of the fact they use white meat chicken, since breast is hard to keep juicy. As I soon found out, I needn’t have worried. A thin breast cutlet was crusted in cornflakes and fried to a golden brown, locking in the bird’s juices. The house-made waffle was crispy, but still had good give, and was a winning foil to the rich gravy, which Chef Whisenant crafted with Thai sausage and cuts of bacon. Maple syrup contributed sweetness to each well-balanced bite.