I didn’t take a moment’s break during my short stay in Kaohsiung, waking up at dawn to squeeze in a breakfast (or two) before touring the Taiwanese city, and staying out late (in the rain) to add extraneous meals. I was full from another large dinner at Taiwanese Restaurant in the Grand Hi-Lai Hotel, but couldn’t resist a promising, geographically desirable lead – Houdefu – which supposedly served some of the best dumplings in the city.

Houdefu was only three blocks from the Grand Hi-Lai, with a red awning and two kitchens, including an enticing wok up front, a larger kitchen in back, and Asian pop music in between.

Deep Fry Rib (NT$ 55 ~ $2) was actually a juicy pork chop, burnished and plated on pickled mustard greens. This dish was readily available in Taiwan, and Houdefu served my version.

As I learned in British Columbia, black bears feast on clover, but in same ways, Houdefu’s Clover Roll (NT$ 65) would have been better off as bear bait. Sure, the roll had a good foundation – supple fried pancake – but instead of something fun like braised beef, it cradled alfalfa sprouts, crunchy purple and green cabbage, carrot, cucumber and mayo.

Won Ton in Spicy Chile Sauce (NT$ 70) featured thin-skinned pork dumplings with plentiful meat and accompanying cabbage, all submerged in a slightly sweet, lip tingling chile sauce.

Complimentary pitchers of cold black tea and soy milk were both pretty good individually, and even better combined in a cup thanks to the nutty flavor of the “milk” and the balanced tea. What do you think, did I stumble upon the Taiwanese Arnold Palmer?

Houdefu ended up being worth a little extra pain for the sake of the pork chops and wontons.