We’re living in a hamburger golden age. Plenty of L.A.’s leading culinary heavyweights are rolling out deluxe hamburgers. Fundamental LA is the five-year-old Westwood restaurant from childhood buddies (and fellow Cal Bears) Woogene Lee and Jeff Faust. Now that chef Nick Erven is in the kitchen, Fundamental LA offers some new destination dishes, including L.A.’s best new burger.

Erven is humble about the Cheese Burger ($13), which is available at dinner and by request at lunch. He said, “It is my serviceable homage to my favorite greasy spoon burgers.” The Wyoming native is clearly skilled at understatement. The double cheese burger stars twin patties of chuck, brisket and short rib that are rosy at their centers and deliver good chew. Erven piles seared patties with sweet caramelized onions, molten American cheese, and Thousand Island dressing on an OC Baking Company brioche bun. Pickled mustard seeds in the sauce keeps the burger from going overboard into a rich pool. May every dish that Erven creates be so serviceable at this neighborhood favorite.