Quiche is far from glamorous. You’ll never find #quiche trending on social media, and most specimens around town are relegated to musty coffeehouse cases. Many crusts could better be described as shells, with fillings reminiscent of spackle. Thankfully, Friends & Family provides hope for quiche beyond its birthplace in what is now northeast France.

Friends & Family, the highly personal, multi-faceted cafe from Daniel Mattern (savory), Roxana Jullapat (sweet) and business partners Niroupa and Ash Shah, has been a hit from the jump in increasingly diverse Thai Town. Their success should come as no surprise to anybody who tried their seasonal comfort food at restaurants like Cooks County or Ammo.

Dungeness Crab Quiche ($16) has a lot to recommend it. A silky, tangy filling of egg, Meyer lemon, creme fraiche and dill features sweet tufts of perhaps the West Coast’s most revered ingredient: Dungeness crab. The crust is straight butter and beautifully flaky, befitting Jullapat, L.A.’s best pie baker. Each slab comes plated with a judiciously dressed salad, for balance.