Just when it looked like bacon-wrapped dates were hurtling toward played out oblivion, Vertical Wine Bistro pulled the rip chord. A.O.C. set the bacon-wrapped bar when Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne opened their 3rd Street small plates emporium in 2002 and featured Parmesan-stuffed, bacon-wrapped dates. Since then, several restaurants have tried to top that version. Many chefs tend to go too rich, but Vertical Wine Bistro strikes just the right balance.

General Manager/Sommelier David Haskell and Chef Doug Weston have injected new life in Vertical Wine Bistro since arriving at Gale Anne Hurd’s multifaceted upstairs restaurant. They overhauled the menu to meet the level of Haskell’s always interesting beverage pairings. However, some menu items remain, including the bar-only Date Poppers ($11). This week’s Dose of Vitamin P features crisp, salty Serrano ham wrapped around a sticky medjool date, molten Gorgonzola and pickled jalapeño, with just enough heat and acidity to cut through the richness.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.