Just when it was beginning to look like restaurant development on Upper King was starting to stall, Karalee Nielsen and Tim Mink of Revolutionary Eating Ventures helped to jumpstart the neighborhood’s gastro-engine. They owned a tapas bar called Raval at 453 King, but decided the neighborhood would be better served by a gastropub, and based on my recent visit, it’s clear that they’ve delivered an inspired take on the genre with Closed For Business.
The duo has 30 (mainly) craft beers on tap and a reasonably priced, locally inspired menu that’s without a doubt highlighted by the Pork Slap ($10), an ingenious sandwich that involves a fried pork cutlet topped with Benton’s famed country ham (smoky, salty and rosy-hued), Swiss cheese, green tomato chutney and “house sauce,” all on a soft challah bun. This is a brilliant sandwich, with a crisp crust, juicy core and pork-on-pork action that is downright pornographic. The green tomato chutney adds acidity that helps to balance out the richness of the Vitamin P. So does the house-made pickled vegetables, a dish of tangy cauliflower florets, carrot and sliced onions. If you want fries or pickle slaw instead, be their guest.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.