On Friday afternoon, I had a chance to speak with BoHo chef Andre Guerrero (Max, The Oinkster) about his plans for the menu at his (and Adolfo Suaya’s) upcoming Hollywood restaurant. He said, “It’s unique and different in that we’re not having a traditional menu with a first course and second course.” Instead, everything will be shareable, including plates of ribs, market-driven vegetables sourced from the Hollywood Farmers Market, and 12-inch pizzas. The plan: “Bring out the food as it’s ready. It’s kind of like going to a Chinese restaurant.”
As for those vegetables, expect winter squash with bacon and butter, sautéed Brussels with bacon and sour orange juice, and baked fennel with Gruyere and house-cured pancetta.
Pork products are clearly important to Chef Guerrero. As a result, he plans to make charcuterie, probably over at Max, including salumi and pepperoni.
Pizza is an often-contentious topic, and Guerrero is convinced that he has a handle on the craft. In the late ’80s, he made pizza for four years at Brio, a defunct California-Italian concept in Tarzana. Recently, he spent six months developing a dough recipe for his thin crust pies. Guerrero won’t divulge his secret ingredient, but he was willing to share that he ferments the dough for two days.
Guerrero addressed two other factors in the great pizza debate: the oven and the water. Don’t expect to find a wood-burning oven at BoHo. He said, “I absolutely believe a good gas deck oven makes a better pizza and a lot of Italians would crucify me for saying that.” As for the water, “The secret is having a good filter…When people talk about the water in New York, they don’t know what they’re talking about. The water out here is hard, with chlorine.” The filter softens the water and removes the chlorine.
Guerrero hasn’t revealed all his pizza variations yet, but he said he will top a pie with Gruyere, Spanish olives and caramelized onions.
To drink, expect small-batch artisanal beers flowing from 24 draft lines, with the kegs enclosed in glass walk-in cooler.
Guerrero learned to make desserts from his pastry chef father at nine years old, and he’ll be making the desserts at BoHo. Expect a Valrhona chocolate sundae with Marcona almonds and vanilla bean ice cream. “It will look familiar but it will be something you’ve never had before.” He left little doubt about what’s at the top of his Christmas wish list: a Pacojet.