For Citizen in Beverly Hills, bartender Josh Goldman created the restaurant’s nouveau retro cocktail program. He’s no longer working for Citizen, but some of his creative drinks remain. Goldman crafted two different takes on the egg cream, a Jewish deli classic that typically combines chocolate syrup, milk, and soda water. A traditional version is available under the menu’s “Vintage Sodas” heading, but I’d suggest the Santa Monica Egg Cream ($8).

House-made coconut cream melds beautifully tangy lime juice, sweet pineapple juice, and soda water. The cream helps to thicken up the drink and keep it frothy. Goldman’s recipe calls for a garnish of chewy dried pineapple chip balanced on eco-friendly striped paper straw, fun touches that simultaneously dial up artistry and function.