Local publications have heaped so much praise on Chengdu Taste since the Sichuan-style restaurant opened in 2013 that I could barely see the front wall beneath the sea of framed write-ups. I understand why, considering all the standout regional Chinese dishes from chef Tony Xu. Cabbage with Sweet & Sour Sauce, Mung Bean Jelly Noodle with Chile Sauce, and Boiled Fresh Fish with Green Pepper Sauce all impressed me. Still, it took a fluke to discover my favorite dish to date.

Chengdu Taste sold out of House Special Live Shrimp on a Friday night. Thankfully, my astute server was ready to suggest viable shrimp-focused alternatives. The off-menu Shrimp and Potato dish was my favorite Chengdu Taste plate, though it doesn’t have a codified name.

The stunning stir-fried dish arrived in an aluminum foil nest that resembled saw teeth. They sliced shell-on shrimp down the middle, allowing oil and spices to infuse the sweet, semi-butterflied shellfish. Similarly caramelized potato sticks resembled French fries, but weren’t as crispy. Next came a ground pork shower, chiles and scallions. The cumulative effect was staggering. Even though the food was coated in spices, my friend and I couldn’t stop plowing through the plate. It’s a good thing Chef Xu was out of the special shrimp.