“The greatest oak was once a tiny nut that held its ground.” That saying lines the stairway wall inside The Charter Oak. This terrific seasonal wood-fired restaurant from Meadowood executive chef Christopher Kostow and fine dining business partner Nathaniel Dorn features chef de cuisine Katianna Hong’s more approachable wood-fired cooking.

The Charter Oak resides on The Charter Oak Avenue. Their stone building used to house Tre Vigne, the restaurant that unleashed Michael Chiarello on the Bay Area. The restaurant’s current incarnation features twin lion statues framing the entrance, a dining room with high ceiling and brick walls, and a central hearth that draws eyes and fuels the menu. Every dish was soulful and satisfying. I particularly enjoyed Roasted Pork Shoulder ($28). Luscious spices of fat-streaked, seared pork co-starred sweet winter squash, spiced molasses, hearty greens, and crunchy, nutty pumpkin seeds.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.