Cadet is a seasonal Santa Monica restaurant from The Counter founder Jeff Weinstein and chef Kris Tominaga. The partners harness the power of a wood-fire grill in an airy setting. From their November 2014 opening, the space looked great. Brick walls frame grey cushioned booths, a bustling square bar and chandeliers that could either qualify as Art Moderne, “The Day The Earth Stood Still” or futuristic Q-tips, depending upon your perspective.

Now Tominaga and crew are really rolling. They’re open for two meals daily. Their standout weekend brunch includes food-friendly cocktails. I was especially impressed with Cadet’s Michelada ($13). Strand Brewing Co.’s Atticus IPA provided a beautiful bittersweet base that was far more interesting than the standard Mexican lager.

Bartender Gaby Mlynarczyk previously worked at ink. and Eva. She balanced the contents of the Collins glass with St. Germain, chiles, lime juice and honey. Shichimi togarashi, the Japanese seven-spice blend, lines the rim, and a slice of lime serves as a colorful garnish. The flavor profile was bright and spicy. IPA is an aggressive beer style for a michelada, so be sure to stir the drink and integrate bitter flavors before sipping.