The Decemberists concert let out at Stubb’s and even though we already made five food stops earlier in the day, the heat and the humidity somehow managed to reignite some semblance of hunger. My brother and I made a mad dash to reach South Lamar for Barley Swine, the first restaurant from celebrated Odd Duck chef-owner Bryce Gilmore. With a name that suggested a commitment to beer and pork, and given the fact that Food & Wine had just named Gilmore one of their Best New Chefs, hopes were high on the drive south.
Barley Swine opened at the end of 2010 in a former pie shop, right down Lamar Boulevard from Odd Duck. The casual, contemporary space featured wood flooring, faux stone walls, an open kitchen with only eight stools and the base of the bar crafted from old doors. Just like the shelf in my apartment, Barley Swine’s taps hosted a chanchito, a three-legged clay pigurine [pig figurine] that brings good luck from Chile. My chanchito goes by Tripod, but I digress.
Our server, Carla, was a friendly gardener who hails from Western Massachusetts and previously worked on South Congress at Perla’s. She directed us to some interesting dishes and also pointed out the miniature chef’s coat on the wall that commemorated Gilmore’s F&W award.
We received a complementary dish of meaty, marinated Castelvetrano olives, then we continued to the menu, where Gilmore and sous chef Sam Hellman-Mass apparently swap out two or three dishes per week. My brother and I started in earnest with an order of fried Fried Brussels Sprouts ($5), with crisp-leaved cuts dressed with tangy capers and lemon juice.
Our Barley Swine experience was a good one, but the restaurant isn’t really ideally suited for a duo, since the menu features many more enticing options, and we barely managed to make a dent.
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