Customers order from a counter framed by pickle jars that aren’t just decorative.

Smørrebrød (3 for $15) open-faced Danish sandwiches on dark rye, supported combinations like smoked sturgeon with potato and dill sauce (skordalia), and horseradish; smoked eggplant with roasted tomato, earthy white bean puree and tangy olive; and creamy goat cheese with broccoli, sweet onion jam, and chile.

Chopped Salad ($13) was a surprising standout. The somewhat overdressed melange was still fairly satisfying, complete with paprika, salami, tomato, cucumber, button mushrooms, scallions, peppers and pepperoncini, served with soft wheat.

Lango is another open-faced sandwich that isn’t exactly a household name in the States, but in Hungary, people practically trip over them. My choice top the supple fried bread involved thin-sliced, roasted lamb ($13) subtly spicy horseradish cream, shaved summer squash (and their blossoms), sliced tomato and sharp cheese shavings.

Sandwiches ($12) on smoked potato pan bread more or less amounted to grilled cheese. A seemingly innocuous combination of smoked chicken, charred peppers and onions, and melted cheese, was hearty and flavorful.

Racsos Csololades ($5) was my meal’s only misfire, a dry Hungarian chocolate tart crafted with almond, rye, and apricot, dusted with confectioner’s sugar and plated on glass.

Fermented melon soda ($4) was a fun and funky seasonal selection that required stirring.