At Superbite, the downtown spinoff from Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñonez Denton of Ox fame, the idea is to pack explosive flavor into each “superbite.” Some dishes are tiny by design, while other plates receive more real estate. I was glad to see their Chicken-Fried Quail ($17) get a wider berth.
The Dentons start with an excellent grilled romaine heart salad, ostensibly a Caesar, anchored to the plate with miso Caesar dressing, drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice and showered with sharp Parmigiano Reggiano shavings. Atop the smoky greens, you’ll find a juicy quartered quail coated with seasoned flour and deep-fried to a beautiful golden hue.
Considering that the Dentons preach the “superbite” concept, it’s kind of ironic that such a big plate qualifies as a “starter” on the menu, but I can assure you that sure didn’t suffer from palate fatigue by the time I took my last bite of quail.
UPDATE: Superbite closed after two years. The Dentons will fill the space with Bistro Agnes.