Yealang Smith invited me and my girlfriend to preview Soul, and based on the seven-dish meal she prepared, her upcoming soul food restaurant will be a welcome (and distinctive) addition to the Hollywood dining scene.
Smith was born in Kinston, North Carolina, but moved to Los Angeles when she was eight months old. She earned a B.A. in Political Science from Howard University, returning to L.A. to work as an event planner for accounting execs. She saw caterers making way more money than her, so she began catering herself. Her first assignment: Usher’s first video, followed immediately by an assignment for the same director on TLC’s landmark “Waterfalls” video. She was soon catering video shoots for rappers like Master P, Biggie and 2Pac (before and after his death). So much for event planning.
Smith led us on a tour of Soul’s future home, which beginning in 1936 served as Al’s Drug Store. For now, it’s lined with concrete, primed for construction.
Tag Front recently received three nominations for AIA/LA Restaurant Design Awards, for Blue Velvet, Lucky Fish and Elevate Lounge. Now they’re tasked with bringing Soul to life. In front, near Hollywood Boulevard, a long bar will run along the east wall, serving as the centerpiece of a lounge area. Further back, there will be two floors of dining, including a 1600-foot mezzanine. The second floor will also host a private room, “so you can go to the party, but not be at the party.” Next to the brick-walled kitchen, expect a chef’s table for eight, where diners will eat until they have to beg Yealang to stop cooking.
Until Soul construction begins, Smith decorated the stark space with her mother’s colorful art for inspiration.
Smith said it was important that our meal include “the reason I’m here” – fried chicken. She means that literally.
Jeff Kreshek, one of the principals in the CIM real estate fund, tasted Smith’s fried chicken six years ago at a catered event, and it eventually led to Soul becoming a CIM tenant. She followed a family recipe, marinating the wings for two hours, tossing them with flour in a bag, and pan-frying them in a pan of hot vegetable oil. This led to thin, crisp sheathes and some subtle spice. Tonight, Smith just served wings, but at Soul, she’ll serve the whole bird.
A gigantic gumbo bowl incorporated an addictive roux, spicy turkey sausage slices, shredded chicken, large shrimp and fresh crab bought earlier that day in Chinatown.
For her gumbo base, Smith served a separate bowl of brown rice flecked with tomatoes and fresh herbs like basil and rosemary, explaining, “I don’t even buy white rice.”
Smith served a frittata-like slab of soy mac and cheese (actually farfalle). The soy cheese was underworldly in terms of texture and flavor. At Soul, Smith also plans to have a four-cheese version including Asiago, Gouda and cheddar.
At Soul, expect plenty of fresh vegetable sides. Smith sautéed Swiss chard with onions, red and green bell pepper, garlic and olive oil. It was simple but fresh. She also plans to offer red beans, Texas mustard greens, collards, kale and sweet potatoes. In the South, most vegetables are prepared with fatback. Smith cooks with pork, but keeps it separate, so there’s always a vegetarian option.
Just about every dish that Smith cooks incorporates fresh herbs, either as flavoring or garnish. Fresh lima beans were smoky and outstanding.
Each of us received two bone-in short ribs blanketed with mushrooms and tomatoes, served over buttery grits and plated with a diced tomato and avocado salad in Italian vinaigrette. At this point, it was tough to enjoy the dish, since we were both nearing a food-induced coma.
Smith’s peach cobbler featured a handmade crust and fresh peaches flavored with clove, cinnamon and vanilla.
Soul ETA: March 2009
Blog Comments
Ira Cook
July 21, 2015 at 3:27 PM
Hi Yelang….Girl you have come a lone way from our Kenneth Levanthal at the accounting firm. I am so proud of you. Some people you don’t see but you carry them in your heart forever. God Bless you and I wish nothing but good luck forever.
Lynn Jakoby
December 17, 2008 at 4:20 PM
Hi Yealang. Well, your dream’s almost come true. Just a few more months. Hold on tight, the train is gaining speed.
Looking forward to enjoying your food in your new beautiful place. Hugs, Lynn
Moné
October 16, 2008 at 2:22 AM
Hello Cousin, I see you are doing it big like we know how to do it. Keep up the marvelous work. I’m proud of you. You know my stomach is ready for that gumbo. I can’t wait until your lil cousins (my grandkids get a taste of your delicious food. So when is the next family gathering so that I can be their little tummies to get their first taste of their big cousins food. Well love ya!! Keep up the wonderful work. Love always your cousin Moné
TA
October 15, 2008 at 10:28 PM
As one of Chef Yealang’s roommates during college, I was privvy to her awesome creations long before ThrowDown,Soul Folks and SOUL! WHO KNEW that her preparation of scrumptious dishes then was merely practice for an incredible future in culinary arts!
During a visit to Los Angeles, a number of my family members (most of whom are from S.C. and know a thing or two about cooking great soul food) joined YEA for brunch at Soul Folks and they’re STILL raving about the experience. Even after having dined at quite a few posh restaurants over three days, all of them indicated that Soul Folks was THE BEST – hands down! Everyone’s planning to head out for the SOUL Hollywood experience.
Those of you who have not exposed your taste buds to the Chef’s amazing dishes should jump in line AS SOON AS you become aware of SOULs opening date. You’re in for a treat! The food is pleasing to the palate, the music rocks, and Shamala’s art is truly FAB-U-LOUS!
TonyC
October 15, 2008 at 2:28 PM
wow.. so much love and support behind the chef. love that. peach cobbler here i come… but please hold the soy mac n cheese.
mattatouille
October 15, 2008 at 12:37 AM
phew! long comments, but dang that soul food looks DANG good. nice post.
Lillie Siplin
October 14, 2008 at 5:58 PM
I am Yealang’s adopted Auntie and have followed her develoopment and growth into the absolutely astonishing and beautiful human being that she is and continues to be.
Every ingredient in the various foods that she prepares speaks to her genius in thought, care and preparation.
She fooled me because I thought that she would become that exceptional attorney or veterinarian that she talked about while growing up. However, Yealang’s tenaciousness far exceeded those dreams and now she exemplifies that if you follow your deepest dreams, the universe will assist you in bringing them to fruition. Yealang has unquestionably entered into the beautiful world of creative, culinary arts. The food she prepares is by far the best in the country—and that statement is not made just because she is my niece. Every person that I have talked with (and there are many) who have experienced Yealang’s cuisine express resounding satisfaction.
Not only is her cuisine outstanding and stands above and beyond the rest, Yealang consciously brings customer care to each and every person that she serves in her establishment with a posture of graciousness, gratitude, gratefulness, laughter, and personal thoughts of care. She does not demonstrate grandiosity, only style and concern. Needless to say, I am more than proud of her as well as to be her Auntie.
Try it! (SOUL) I guarantee you’ll like it! I don’t profess to anything that I don’t believe in or have not experienced first hand.
Lillie Siplin, Clinical Therapist
Shamala Bennu Auset
October 14, 2008 at 2:03 PM
Soul Folks! ThrownDown Catering!SOUL! are all facets of Yealang’s remarkable talents in the culinary arts. Before Yealang Smith graduated from Howard University with a degree in Political Science, she had already been inducted into the Home Arts:decorating, designing, cooking by our ancestors. As her cousin Erica said,: We come from a long line of great cooks.” After college Yealang worked as an event planner and realized how much money was spent on food, its production, preparation and delivery. She enjoyed involvement in the whole process. Followong her bliss Ms. “Soul Folks” started her catering business, “Throwdown Catering” in my dinner room. Yealang cooked herself out of the house after cooking up two ovens for her bludgeoning business. She moved to my chagrin, (narrow boxed understanding), she moved to a loft. Yea used every oven on the second floor on a rotational basis (great neighbors). The manager of the loft told her about a small place for rent that she could use for a restaurant.”Soul Folks” was born. Her first food was cooked on a hot plate.Since then she has served people ranging from a South Afrakan royalty, Bob Marley’s mother,Sidney Portier, Angela Basset,CCH Pounder, the Mayor, councilperson, the homelessness. Yealang and Throwdown Catering have been the only Afrakan American business to participate in the Annual Tofu Festival in Downtown Los Angeles. After appearing on the Bobby Flay television show that was filed at the Annual Tofu festival, a network food show called “Throwdown” commenced. With this, I will close down that sharing.
“Excerpt from the “Making of Soul” coming out soon.
Whatever your situation is SOUL can take care of it. As soon as we open, bring your culinary needs to this palce of beauty,passion and gourmand delight.You will know you have arrived home. This is exactly what you have been looking
How do I know all of this! I am the mother. Some come from me, and some comes from her father and other ancestoral cooks. But Yealang chose to manifest the art and science of cooking at this level. This blesses the world!
Marilin Brewer
October 14, 2008 at 10:37 AM
Hi Yelang,
Marilin from Terry Michaelis office. It all looks yummy, I can’t wait to come to Soul.
Marilin
ERICA DAVIS
October 14, 2008 at 6:29 AM
YEALANG SMITH IS MY FIRST COUSIN AND I AM VERY PROUD OF HER. I KNOW THE RESTURANT WILL BE A SUCESSFUL SHE COMES FROM A LONG LINE OF GREAT COOKS.
LOVE COUSIN
ERICA
GREETING FROM TITUSVILLE FL,
Keith aka Funk
October 13, 2008 at 2:51 PM
As often as I have eaten from Chef Yealang’s delicious,deep and enticing food dishes I remain impressed …….her dedication to the “art of food” is fully wedded to ” hitting my “seven senses’ ! I’ve followed her as she evolved through both Soul Folks restaurants and several catering events and she continues to
“throw down”…well !!