Points of interest are slowly populating ROW DTLA. This former industrial space now counts more than 1 million square feet of offices, retail, and restaurants. Smorgasburg LA food market and Dulce Dos coffee bar were part of the redevelopment’s first culinary wave. Businesses like Rappahannock Oyster Bar and Paramount Coffee Project joined the line-up later. We’re now well into the second wave, which includes a fast casual Japanese fried chicken concept called Pikunico. Respected chef-owner Kuniko Yagi last cooked at lauded restaurants like Hinoki & The Bird, Comme Ça, and Sona.

Pikunico doesn’t sell any alcohol. Instead, Yagi complements her beautifully fried chicken thighs and wings and “golden” fried chicken sandwiches with judiciously sweet, house-made yuzu-ade and lightly caffeinated iced green tea instead of trendier, more powerful matcha. The counterwoman allowed me to order an atypical Japanese-inspired Arnold Palmer ($4). Equal parts yuzu-ade and green tea deftly balanced tang, tannins, and sweetness.