The Oinkster Medianoche

Sandwich Los Angeles

The Oinkster honors the medianoche, a pork-fueled sandwich with roots in South Florida's Cuban community.

When is a burger not a burger? At The Oinkster in an Eagle Rock A-Frame building, December’s Burger of the Month was actually a Cuban-inspired sandwich. I can forgive the misnomer considering the Medianoche from The Oinkster chef Andre Guerrero tasted so good.

The Cubano as we now know it likely originated in Ybor City in the metro Tampa area in the 1890s. Cigar factory workers in the community would eat this sandwich on Florida’s Gulf Coast. This was a pressed play on a familiar street food, the mixto, that they would eat back home. The medianoche has a name that means midnight in Spanish. This Cuban sandwich variation arrived in sweeter, egg enriched bread instead of the standard pressed bread.

Medianoche ($9) featured juicy, thick-sliced roast pork, equally substantial ham, molten cheese, tangy bread-and-butter pickles, a generous slathering of hot sweet mustard, and a rich smear of mayo on a buttery flattened and grilled lobster roll. Double bonus: I scored two types of pork and no lobsters were harmed in making this sandwich; it’s just the type of bread typically used for lobster rolls.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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