Model Milk Chilled Summer Peas

Peas Calgary

Summer peas get top billing, but nduja sausage aioli makes the plate.

17th Calgary Avenue SW between downtown and Lower Mount Royal is probably Calgary’s trendiest stretch, and chef Justin Leboe has played a big part in that pocket’s realization. He runs three businesses at the intersection of 2 Street SW: contemporary restaurant Model Milk, a speakeasy called Model Citizen, and an adjacent restaurant called Pigeonhole. Model Milk has been open since 2014 in a former dairy featuring a four-tier bar and dining experience, a white cow head over the entrance, and a seasonal Canadian menu that lists key purveyors in the left sidebar.

With summer still on the rise, Leboe shucked Chilled Summer Peas ($16) and plated with earthy fava beans, bright seasonal herbs, and vivid edible flowers. In the center of a vibrant ring, he filled in a shallow pool of nduja sausage aioli. The spicy spreadable Calabrian pork sausage provided fierce, creamy contrast to an otherwise light vegetable dish.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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