17th Calgary Avenue SW between downtown and Lower Mount Royal is probably Calgary’s trendiest stretch, and chef Justin Leboe has played a big part in that pocket’s realization. He runs three businesses at the intersection of 2 Street SW: contemporary restaurant Model Milk, a speakeasy called Model Citizen, and an adjacent restaurant called Pigeonhole. Model Milk has been open since 2014 in a former dairy featuring a four-tier bar and dining experience, a white cow head over the entrance, and a seasonal Canadian menu that lists key purveyors in the left sidebar.
With summer still on the rise, Leboe shucked Chilled Summer Peas ($16) and plated with earthy fava beans, bright seasonal herbs, and vivid edible flowers. In the center of a vibrant ring, he filled in a shallow pool of nduja sausage aioli. The spicy spreadable Calabrian pork sausage provided fierce, creamy contrast to an otherwise light vegetable dish.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.