After early reports from my oldest friend and multiple cousins, I dismissed this restaurant when visiting Miami last Thanksgiving. Still, I couldn’t help but be curious when NY Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni just this week named Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink the #4 restaurant to open outside New York City since 2006. I was going to be in Miami anyway, and had to eat lunch, so why not there? That thought process led to Atlas Plaza in the Miami Design District to experience Michael Schwartz’s “Fresh Simple Pure” concept.
The space was modern and interesting. Boxy red lanterns resembled cross-sections of Rubik’s Cube, black-and-white pixilated portraits – including one that may have been Schwartz – and a back bar offering views of the heirloom tomato lined counter and flame-spitting wood-fired oven.
Crispy Sweet & Spicy Pork Belly ($9) was predictably luscious, topped with crushed peanuts and Paradise Farms pea shoots, planted on spicy kimchi, an untraditional mix of pickled cabbage, carrots and onions. Bacon contains so much fat that it’s nearly impossible to dry out, but this square was clearly overcooked.
Crispy Hominy ($5) was an original bar snack, chewy kernels dusted with chile powder. A lime squeeze brought out more flavor.
Chicken Liver Crostini ($5) featured livers cooked with cognac and cream then pureed and slathered on sourdough crostini, each capped with a strip of caramelized onion and flecked with chopped parsley. The rich starter probably would have benefited from less liqueur.
Wood Roasted Fish of Today ($19) was cobia, a seven-ounce filet of flaky Caribbean black kingfish. Unfortunately, the accompanying sautéed escarole was incredibly bitter, and raw arugula was equally brutal. Even with a lime squeeze and several spoonfuls of olive salsa, my taste buds took a beating.
Steamed Mussels ($12) with sticky black rice, tomato harissa broth and garlic chips was fair. The broth was fairly flavorful, but wasn’t enough to combat the knobby, texturally unsatisfying mussels, which went unfinished.
Pastry Chef Hedy Goldsmith wrote a powerhouse dessert menu, which led to an agonizing decision. We were tempted by the Key lime cheesecake flan with macadamia shortbread and tangerine pot de crème with pistachio baklava and tangerine cardamom confit.
Goldsmith’s Meyer Lemon Tart with blueberry tarragon compote & berry float ($9) was much more intricate than the description let on. The four-part dessert included a delicate Key lime tart, a dish of sweet blueberry tarragon compote with ginger shavings, a sugar-dusted white chocolate lavender truffle that was rich and dense, and a raspberry smoothie topped with a tiny scoop of vanilla ice cream and a single mint leaf.
Aside from the food, I had a couple quibbles. I’m all for branding, but was it really necessary to imprint the menu with the definition of “genuine?” Does Schwartz really think his diners don’t know the meaning of the word? Also, after ordering dessert, a woman from the jewelry store in the plaza walked from table to table, handing out business cards. I can’t imagine why Schwartz allowed something so intrusive in his restaurant.
Considering both restaurants I’ve eaten at on Bruni’s Top 10 were less than stellar, it once again reinforces the fact that people have different tastes. Michael’s was a good restaurant, but didn’t serve a single great dish. Still, given Miami’s lackluster dining scene, it was worth a try, and I’d be willing to return to the restaurant for dinner, when they offer a more ambitious menu.
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