Mama’s on Washington Square: This Breakfast Warrants Willpower

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Restaurant San Francisco

Waiting for breakfast is a popular San Francisco pastime. Mama's has regular lines.

My last meal at Mama’s was in 2004, but it’s not due to a dip in interest. On the contrary. I’ve made repeated attempts to eat at the reigning queen of Bay Area breakfast joints, but it all comes down to one factor: timing. On weekends, if you don’t join the line a half-hour before the 8 AM opening, you’re out of the initial seating and out of luck. This time, we wouldn’t be denied.

Frances “Mama” Sanchez opened her scintillating restaurant in 1951 on the northeast corner of Washington Square. Now Debra Sanchez runs the restaurant with husband Michael, the skilled grill man, head baker and Mama’s son.

Once you’re granted the privilege of passing through the front door, you’re paraded past the sizzling grill and bustling prep counter, where you’ll see bowls of garden fresh vegetables and lump crab meat, and stacks of jaw-dropping coffee cakes. By the time you reach the register to place your order, a table should be ready, and your stomach should be churning.


Bread San Francisco

Warm loaves of bread destined for French toast glory line the countertop.

Coffee Cake San Francisco

Whatever you order, don’t pass up prized coffee cakes. Chocolate crunch was this visit’s grand champion, with a moist base and chocolate-lashed streusel top that was nearly an inch thick.

Coffee Cake San Francisco

Blueberry sour cream coffee cake was also compelling, with plump berries and tangy pop from sour cream.

French Toast San Francisco

Michael Sanchez transforms fresh bread into French toast. You can order toasts individually, but the best way to experience Mama’s French toast is by ordering their sampler ($10.95). The trio changes each day. During our visit, we enjoyed tart cranberry-orange-walnut, Swedish cinnamon and banana nut topped with thin-sliced banana. The supple French toast fan was dusted with powdered sugar, scattered with fresh berries (black, rasp and straw) and plated with a tiny maple syrup pitcher.

Ham San Francisco

With all the bread-on-bread action, we needed a Dose of Vitamin P to introduce a savory element. Mama’s grills thick strips of bacon, but we opted for a slab of char-grilled ham ($3.50) that delivered more than enough salt to cut all the sweetness.

Mama’s also produces buttermilk pancakes, fluffy omelettes and Benedict that utilizes that pulled crab meat.

In case you need an added jolt, each table hosts a container of homemade olallieberry jam, which is terrific on just about anything.

Mama’s was well worth the half-hour wait for what remains San Francisco’s best breakfast. During the week, customers have to contend with fewer tourists, so it’s an even better time to visit.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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