Louie’s of Mar Vista received a surprise infusion when chef Chris Feldmeier took over as managing partner for John Atkinson, who also runs North End Caffe in Manhattan Beach. Feldmeier is a Torrance kid who’s been going to North End Caffe for 20 years; his brother used to bartend across the street. Feldmeier has built up quite a resume, working for chefs like Nancy Silverton before opening short-lived, but exciting Moruno and Bar Moruno at historic L.A. addresses. Atkinson recently handed Feldmeier the keys, and he quickly upgraded the menu and bolstered a strong 12-beer selection.

My wife and I enjoyed Sunday brunch at Louie’s after shopping at the adjacent Mar Vista Farmers Market. Feldmeier has quickly established Louie’s as a breakfast sandwich destination. His talented wife Dahlia Narvaez contributed Dahlia’s Breakfast Sandwich, a dish she makes at home with a mess of crispy bacon, molten American cheese and an oozing fried egg on a light brioche bun. As good as that was, I actually preferred the Spanish Breakfast Sandwich.

Toasted white bread hosts griddled Nueske’s ham, cave-aged Gruyere, and chives. Feldmeier says, “The key is the Japanese white bread,” and plenty of butter. Chris first encountered the sandwich in Madrid, with a “toad in a hole” like cutout for the yolk. “Just one of those things you see when you travel that you don’t understand how you didn’t think of it.”

UPDATE: John Atkinson closed Louie’s suddenly and posted a video blaming the “road diet.”