Loncheria La Morena: Pushing Limits of Comfort at Mercado Bravo

Market La Paz

Mercado Bravo is an important part of daily life in La Paz, Baja California's capital.

We just finished polishing off a seafood feast at Bismark-cito, but as Street Gourmet LA founder Bill Esparza pointed out, it’s hard to know the soul of a Mexican city without visiting the central market. So we forged ahead to Mercado Bravo and walked the tiled floor before settling on Loncheria La Morena, a seemingly basic stall that far exceeded expectations.

Restaurant Menu La Paz

A dark-haired woman from Acapulco, la morena, opened the U-shaped counter in 1998.

Seafood La Paz

We started our comforting meal with a plate of Machaca de Pescado (40 pesos ~ $3.50), shredded yellowtail stewed with tomato, onions and mild chile poblano. On the side, we received fluffy rice and larded, re-fried pinto beans.

Pork La Paz

Carne de Puerco (40) was our token meat dish, featuring tender chunks of pork shoulder braised with sweet red guajillo chiles, served with more re-fried pinto beans. We wrapped steaming flour tortillas around both components, flirting with first-degree burns, and it was worth the pain.

Fish La Paz

We considered settling our bill, but couldn’t resist ordering one more dish, Pescado Empanizado (40), a compelling piscine play on Milanesa. We squeezed lime on the crispy breaded pescado de pierna, a flaky flounder-like fish fillet.

Loncheria La Morena was one of the top values on a one-week mission in Baja California Sur, and it once again proved that it can be worth pushing the limits of patience and capacity.

Our visit to Loncheria La Morena was part of a Baja California Sur tour sponsored by Baja.com.

Loncheria La Morena: Pushing Limits of Comfort at Mercado Bravo


Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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