Rarely do you find a serious commitment to Hawaiian cuisine outside of the Hawaiian islands. However, at Liholiho Yacht Club in San Francisco’s Tendernob, Hawaiian-born chef Ravi Kapur and wife April Dawn Storm demonstrate a firm grasp and even feature off menu SPAM.
Blue on white “aloha” tiles greet guests at Liloliho Yacht Club. The space contains a deft mix of smooth coat and brick, skylights, open kitchen, wood booths from front to back, and a black steel bar backed by a joyous black-and-white photo of chef’s smiling mother.
Their off menu bowl features thick cut, house-made “SPAM” crafted with pork shoulder and ham that carries the texture of mortadella. According to the late Josh Ozersky’s Esquire article that examines the dish in depth, the result is “seared brown on a flat plancha griddle and glazed under the broiler with tamari, brown sugar, and sesame oil.” Three slabs arrive on flavorful furikake rice with scallions, shichimi togarashi, and squiggles of spicy yellow aioli made with tamari, Sriracha, and sesame oil. House pickles pack tart topside punch.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.