Beachfront restaurants fully rely on the setting way too often, knowing that customers will still visit for the valuable view, food be damned. Thankfully, chef Rainer Schwarz and business partner John Nye aren’t so complacent at Driftwood Kitchen and The Deck in Laguna Beach. The duo’s sister restaurants overlook crashing waves and suntanned surfers, but they also demonstrate attention to detail on their plates.

Yes, Driftwood Kitchen’s setting is great. An airy dining room and umbrella-shaded patio with retractable roof overlook the small Sleepy Hollow Beach, which isn’t as spooky as it sounds. Double bonus: they have a full bar and some great California seafood. I was particularly enamored with Chef Schwarz’s mussels, and even better, his Grilled Swordfish entree.

Swordfish is firm white fish that people generally describe as “meaty,” but Schwarz knows not to cook this substantial filet ($28) like steak. Snow-white flesh is juicy at the center, sports a nice sear, and joins sunchokes (earthy puree and crispy chips), tender roasted baby artichokes, and Spanish almonds. Crunchy strips of yellow bell pepper and microgreens completed Schwarz’s beautiful preparation, which no doubt changes with seasons. Fall refinements are unclear, but I’m glad we tried Driftwood Kitchen swordfish in summer.