The chiseled stone sign at Churreria El Moro, a Mexico City institution, pretty much says it all. Since 1935, they’ve been specializing in fresh-fried, sugar-dipped churros and rich, steaming cups of hot chocolate, 24 hours per day, seven days per week.
A dedicated churro maker stands near the front window, presiding over a steaming trough of bubbling oil. He submerges long snake-like coils of extruded dough into the oil until they become crisp and golden. A counterperson said they use olive oil instead of lard, which would explain their levity.
Workers stack the coils on trays, cut them into segments and roll them in either granulated sugar or piloncillo (brown sugar). Eat them on their own or dip them in hot chocolate, either Espanol, Frances or Mexicano.
These aren’t the greasy specimens you’ll find on L.A. boardwalks, and if you’re looking for a piping of chocolate or cajeta, El Moro isn’t the place. Instead, these are crisp churros, judiciously dusted with sugar and presented in a paper bag for only 3.5 pesos apiece, about a quarter. They’re also a great pick-me-up before returning to the adjacent Metro, which is pretty much a human demolition derby.