Churreria El Moro: Frying Coiled Dough 24/7 in Distrito Federal

Churros Mexico City


The chiseled stone sign at Churreria El Moro, a Mexico City institution, pretty much says it all. Since 1935, they’ve been specializing in fresh-fried, sugar-dipped churros and rich, steaming cups of hot chocolate, 24 hours per day, seven days per week.

Churros Mexico City
A dedicated churro maker stands near the front window, presiding over a steaming trough of bubbling oil. He submerges long snake-like coils of extruded dough into the oil until they become crisp and golden. A counterperson said they use olive oil instead of lard, which would explain their levity.

Churros Mexico City
Workers stack the coils on trays, cut them into segments and roll them in either granulated sugar or piloncillo (brown sugar). Eat them on their own or dip them in hot chocolate, either Espanol, Frances or Mexicano.

Churros Mexico City
These aren’t the greasy specimens you’ll find on L.A. boardwalks, and if you’re looking for a piping of chocolate or cajeta, El Moro isn’t the place. Instead, these are crisp churros, judiciously dusted with sugar and presented in a paper bag for only 3.5 pesos apiece, about a quarter. They’re also a great pick-me-up before returning to the adjacent Metro, which is pretty much a human demolition derby.

Churreria El Moro: Frying Coiled Dough 24/7 in Distrito Federal

Eje Central 42, Centro, 06000 Ciudad de México, D.F., Mexico
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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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My adorable grandpa used to treat us to those very churros after going to the movies back in the late 60s early 70s. The place was very large and because the place was always packed in the evening, we would stand around trying to see who could spot a table ready to be vacated. We would look at the amount of churros left..the chocolate in the cups and “place our bets” on which group of people would be leaving next. Once we got a table a waitres would show up and ask…how many orders of churros did we want…in those years they came, I believe 5 per order, and then we had to choose the type of hot chocolate we each prefered. The mexican one had a hint of cinnamon and the french one tasted a bit like vanilla. About 10 minutes after placing the order, the waitress would show up with an enormous tray, carrying all the hot, steaming, hot chocolates and as the trophy…a large plate with all the sugary churros piled up on top of each other. She would then pass our beverages…sort of in a hurry, a pile of plates usually placed n front of my mom. She, usually with a big smile, would pass the plates around. We would then be given the signal to go ahead…each of us would take a churro from the big pile and ate the most deliciuos, just made from scratch churros in the world! We kept count in our heads as to how many we each ate..there were never problems with this aspect…a true honor code in churro eating etiquette. My brother and I sometimes would stick the churros in the hot chocolate and used them as straws. The hot chocolate would make its way up the churro…as we “vacummed” it all the way up. Then, once we drank a few sips that way, we would take out the churro and eat it one juicy bite after another. They stayed crispy on the outside very well.
The reason I began this little narrative by mentioning my adorable grandpa is because he may have been the one enjoying the outing more than anyone at the table, which usually included my own family, Dad, Mom and brother, my Uncle’s family and my grandparents. My grandpa had a medical condition that didn’t allow him to drink milk…(couldn’t have the hot chocolate) and he was also forbidden by his brother, the family doctor, from eating any food containing oil. So, as we sat merrilly around the table, he just sat there with us, enriching the conversation with annecdotes or teaching us a miriad of interesting things (he himself was a judge in the supreme court of Mexico and a Cello player). At the end of those evenings he would pay for the bill and would alreadybe talking about the next fun thing he had planned for us. God bless my grandpa. I can’t wait to see him in heaven again. I’m certain he’s already figured out some cool places to take me to there…I hope there is a churro place like El Moro somewhere there in eternity, it will be great to go there and eat churros as I watch my grandpa eat some too!

M,

This is a lovely story involving Churreria El Moro. Thanks for sharing!

These look absolutely delish! You can’t beat quality churro anywhere! I also love the uniforms!

I wonder if anyone knew it was possible to gain wieght while staring at your pc monitor?
I wish I was there. Right now.
tattgiff at centurytel dot net

Hi Joshua,
I’ve been to DF a few times but would love more food recommendations! I’m heading to the DF in a few weeks and was wondering if you remember the names of the other restaurants you went to?

Also, which neighborhood is this place in? I usually stay in Zona Rosa.

Thnx!

Yang,

I’m going to slowly roll out my reviews on Food GPS, but two restaurants you shouldn’t miss are Izote (alta cocina) and El Farolito (pastor, rajas). Enjoy your trip.

niice.

when did you go to Mexico City?!? ha ha.

Glutster, I was in Mexico City over the weekend. There could easily be 12-15 posts from just from those four days. Bill joined me for three of those days. There was some amazing food.

Oh, man, Joshua. You’ve really got me hankering for some real-deal D.F. churros. I just pitched a story idea about pulque. I’d love to buy you a drink and talk to you about your experience down there. I bet a lot’s changed in two years. Hit me up!

Steven,

Too bad we can’t split a bucket of pulque in L.A. If you want to meet, just e-mail me at joshua (at) foodgps.com and we’ll figure out a time for next week or the week after.

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