When I interviewed brewmaster Rich Higgins back in 2011, the San Francisco Brewers Guild had only eight members. Now that number has more than tripled, to 27. SoMa is one neighborhood that benefited most. Connor Casey, Kelly Caveney, and head brewer Tim Sciascia have made Cellarmaker Brewing one of the city’s leading contenders thanks to kitschy fun branding and creative beers. Dank Williams and Heart of Glass might make Hank, Jr. and Blondie blush, but I’d suggest starting with Imperial Coffee & Cigs.

I grabbed a seat with my family at the L-shaped wood bar inside Cellarmaker Brewing. The Golden State Warriors game played on the big screen. Stephen Curry transfixed most people in the room, and he is a mesmerizing player to watch play basketball, but my attention locked on Imperial Coffee & Cigs. This 10.2% ABV Imperial Smoked Coffee Porter clocks 60 IBU. Each barrel contains over four pounds of locally roasted Sightglass coffee for “intense coffee character,” in this case a blend of Colombian El Meridiano, Tolima and Indonesian Sulawesi Toarco Peaberry. German Beechwood smoked malt provides a dark color and toasty flavor. That said, the craft beer was well balanced and sure didn’t drink like dragging on a cigarette.