When I interviewed brewmaster Rich Higgins back in 2011, the San Francisco Brewers Guild had only eight members. Now that number has more than tripled, to 27, with SoMa being one of the neighborhoods that’s benefited most. Cellarmaker Brewing is one of the city’s leading contenders thanks to kitschy fun branding and creative beers from Connor Casey, Kelly Caveney, and head brewer Tim Sciascia. Dank Williams and Heart of Glass might make Hank, Jr. and Blondie blush, but I’d suggest starting with Imperial Coffee & Cigs.

I grabbed a seat with my family at the L-shaped wood bar. The Golden State Warriors game played on the big screen. Stephen Curry transfixed most people in the room, but my attention locked on Imperial Coffee & Cigs. This 10.2% ABV Imperial Smoked Coffee Porter clocks 60 IBU. Each barrel contains over four pounds of Sightglass Coffee for “intense coffee character,” in this case a blend of Colombian El Meridiano, Tolima and Indonesian Sulawesi Toarco Peaberry. German Beechwood smoked malt provides a dark color and toasty flavor. That said, the beer was well balanced and sure didn’t drink like dragging on a cigarette.