Fluid is the best way to describe what Chef Josef Centeno is doing in the downtown Los Angeles Old Bank District. Concepts and menus shift frequently at his four properties, but crave-worthy dishes are constant.

I rarely make it to dessert at Baco Mercat, the eclectic restaurant with massive, ever evolving menu, Middle Eastern spicing, and creative vegetable preparations. I recently made a point to order something sweet and was rewarded.

Pistachio Cheesecake ($12) features a silky puck of cream cheese, honey and pistachio paste that sports a crispy brûléed cap and crushed pistachios. Each cake rests on a fluffy bed of créme fraiche and Aleppo sea salt for a savory flourish.