Fluid is the best way to describe what Chef Josef Centeno is doing at Baco Mercat and his three other restaurants in the downtown Los Angeles Old Bank District. He frequently shifts concepts and menus, but crave-worthy dishes are constant.

Baco Mercat is Chef Centeno’s most eclectic restaurant. His massive, ever evolving menu features Middle Eastern spicing and creative vegetable preparations. I rarely make it to dessert since we go so hard on savory dishes, but I recently made a point to order something sweet. He of course rewarded our persistence.

Pistachio Cheesecake ($12) features a silky puck of cream cheese, honey and pistachio paste that sports a crispy brûléed cap and crushed pistachios. Each cake rests on a fluffy créme fraiche bed. Aleppo sea salt provides a savory flourish.