Harlequins were considered comic relief in Italian commedia dell’arte, but nothing’s laughable about the gelato that Moreno Spangaro and wife Marina have been producing in Phoenix since 2006.

The Trieste natives studied with an Italian gelato master and planned to open a rotisserie chicken establishment in Phoenix before LGO Hospitality founder Bob Lynn offered them a small space for favorable terms next to La Grande Orange Pizzeria. Considering the steady flow of customers, Phoenicians clearly appreciate the fact that the Spangaros chose the scooper over the spit.

Blackboard panels with colorful chalk tout each day’s flavors.

We selected two scoops ($4.48): tart blood orange and creamy Cortina.

Cortina combined Italian toasted almond and sweet streaks of pureed lingonberry. Their gelato wasn’t as adventurous as a place like Scoops, but it was definitely satisfying and refreshing.

On the menu, the Spangaros promised to prepare their gelato “entirely from scratch, using only the finest natural ingredients available on the market today.” Our two scoops were pretty good indication that they followed through on their vision.