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Learn about the Top 12 dishes outside Los Angeles that I ate in 2008, regardless of cuisine or price level. These chosen dishes appear in alphabetical order, not according to my level of enjoyment, which was substantial with every plate.
7. Mil Jugos – Santa Ana, CA – Cachapa Con Queso Blanco
Situated in downtown Santa Ana, a block from the bridal shops and churro carts, resides “the best and only Venezuelan home cooking in town.” Norah Briceño runs the vibrant café with her mother Solange, who makes everything from scratch. Norah noted that cachapas are considered fast food in Venezuela, items to be eaten on the street after a night out at the clubs. Cachapas were also available filled with shredded pork, shredded beef, or sliced ham, but it’s hard to imagine a version besting this simple wonder co-starring queso blanco.
8. The Salt Lick BBQ – Driftwood, TX – Family Platter
My father attended grad school at the University of Texas in the late 60’s, long before urban sprawl began encroaching on the surrounding Hill Country. Every spring, my father, brother and I converge on Austin to gorge on barbecue, driving through Hill Country to eat at many of the same restaurants that were available to my father forty years ago. Before driving to the airport and heading our separate ways, we always stop at the Salt Lick, a now legendary barbecue restaurant that has reduced two family members to tears. We always order family style dinners ($18.95 per person), all you can eat pork ribs, brisket and pork sausage. As always, the brisket was luscious. Ribs were practically lacquered, with caramelized skins. Sausage had taut skin and massive flavor.
9. Sea Rocket Bistro – San Diego, CA – Pan-Seared Opah and Grilled Sardines [CLOSED]
Dennis Stein and Elena Rivellino opened their ultra-local ocean-centric bistro in red-hot North Park on June 1, naming Sea Rocket for a variety of wild arugula that grows on San Diego beaches. On our visit, Chef Christy Samoy prepared an outstanding Pan-Seared San Diego Opah, with a terrific char and juicy flesh that was similar to swordfish, but sweeter. The plate also held L-shaped streaks of chimichurri and “a medley of seasonal vegetables,” a luscious mix of onions, zucchini, peppers and carrots. Stein was nice enough to let us replace mashed Yukon Gold potatoes with lima bean salad drizzled with tangy lemon-infused Temecula avocado oil. Sea Rocket Bistro offers the option to top any dish with three grilled San Diego sardine skewers.
10. Sol Pops – Portland, OR – Basil Lemon Paleta [CLOSED]
At the Saturday Portland Farmers’ Market, we found a sky blue paleta cart beneath a canopy of green “leaves.” Sol Pops partner Bob Pullen explained that paletas are Spanish for “little shovels.” He, Noah Cable and Aaron Harmon work three days per week at different area markets. SOL stands for (S)ustainable (O)rganic (L)ocal. Pullen is a Western Culinary Institute grad. His brother’s friends started making paletas in ice cube trays and brought him in to contribute a “culinary approach to the process.” It’s working. The blackboard menu changes depending on what the trio finds at the market. Today, the offerings included cucumber lime jalapeño, strawberry lemonade and coconut agave. The cost: $3 apiece or 2 paletas for $5. Mango lavender had an intense mango flavor, and the lavender seeds imparted an aromatic perfume.
11. Thanh My – Westminster, CA – Venison Curry
This Bolsa Mini Mall landmark was one of the first Little Saigon restaurants, the name derived by combining the first names of the owner and his wife. The 29-year-old restaurant has somehow managed to remain vital. Years ago, I ate Thanh My’s venison curry, and never forgot the experience. Years later, Nai Xao Lan hoac Nai Nuong was still outstanding, featuring thin strips of lean grilled venison meat cooked with rice vermicelli and strips of black wood ear mushrooms in a sauce of curry, onion and coconut milk. We received a warm baguette, which I tore and slathered with curry, venison and veggies.
12. Trattoria Lucca – Charleston, SC – Crispy Chicken “Mattone”
Talented Italian chef Ken Vedrinski is no longer involved with Sienna, and Daniel Island’s loss is Charleston’s gain. For the past three months, he’s owned Trattoria Lucca on a residential stretch of Charleston and his plan for the city is just beginning. In late 2009, Vedrinski plans to open a refined Italian seafood restaurant in the nearby Cigar Factory building. In the meantime, Vedrinkski already has one of the best restaurants in Charleston, Italian or otherwise. Crispy Ashley Farm Chicken “Mattone” was a ridiculously moist, herbaceous half-chicken plated with dried figs, cipollini onions, and olive oil roasted root vegetables like carrot and parsnip spears and a mashed turnip bed.
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