Kem Trang Tien: Keeping Coo Near Ha Noi’s Hoan Mien Lake
At about 10 p.m., Vietnamese teens were spilling out of the Kem Trang Tien ice cream parlor a block from Ha Noi’s heart, Hoan Mien Lake. Parked motorbikes were stacked just inside the front...
Quay Thuc Pham Cong Nghe: Banh Cuon + Kiddie Chairs
In the general sense, the walls were yellow, but they were so chipped and discolored, I couldn’t be certain. Makeshift shelves were lined with bottles of hot soda and water. It was 90 degrees...
Bun Cha Hang Manh: Bubbling Woks and Pork Patties
When I arrived at Bun Cha Hang Manh at 8:45 AM, a woman was using metal tongs to pluck cha gio from three bubbling woks and place them on trays. Easily over 500 cha...
Cha Ca La Vong: Ha Noi’s Fish Specialist Ages Gracefully
A Ha Noi native I met said, “You haven’t been to Ha Noi until you’ve eaten at Cha Ca La Vong.” If that’s the case, my visit became official on my first day in...
Bun Bo Nam Bo: Tracking Beef Vermicelli Bowls in Ha Noi
I rode on a cyclo to Bun Bo Nam Bo, a tiny, picnic table filled restaurant with a wall-mounted menu that lists only four items. As with many restaurants in Vietnam, what they list...
