A humble exterior belies Jai Yun's grand Chinese dining experience indoors.
REVIEW CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE
ROUND THREE
Our third course dishes were titled “Radish,” “Relish,” “Cabbage” and “Duck.”
Tiny marinated red radishes had nice crunchy texture and a mild sweetness.
Relish featured finely chopped green peppers and onions.
Crisp cabbage strands were tossed with chile oil and julienned red chilies.
Sliced duck was served on the bone, skin on and luscious.
We began with 12 cold dishes, and finished with a dozen more HOT DISHES:
Thin-sliced abalone was scrambled with egg whites and incredible. Abalone is a highly-prized ingredient in China, though I’ve never understood why, until now. At Japanese restaurants, the only abalone I ever tasted was overly-chewy. This abalone was miraculously tender.
Slices of Gluten, wheat that’s been stripped of its starch and pressed, were tossed with green and red peppers, leeks and ginger slivers. By the second or third bite, I began to appreciate gluten’s unfamiliar sponge-like texture.
Shrimp simply sautéed with garbanzo beans and green, red and yellow peppers. Garbanzo beans aren’t typically included in Chinese food, but they worked well with the shrimp.
Soybeans incorporated razor-thin tofu strands, greens and jujubes (tiny red Chinese dates).
Silky hacks of fish, possibly cod, sautéed with corn kernels, peas and red peppers, a nice summer preparation.
This winter melon square was fairly pungent, topped with ground pork, chilies and fermented shrimp and plated atop strands of seaweed. Coming off the mild fish, I liked the dish’s aggressive flavor, though Jane called this her “No Dish.”
Pork leg in brown sauce was kind of like a pork osso bucco, with one-inch layer of fat protecting the tender nuggets of hog meat.
Crispy Chinese celery was tossed with julienned tofu, red pepper and purple onion. After the rich pork leg, this dish offered relief.
Kung pao chicken featured purple onion and yellow pepper and was spicier than the typical version.
Translucent flat noodles were stir-fried with scallions and rich, thin-sliced barbecue pork. The pork featured concentrated hog flavor, which I really enjoyed.
Eggplant was cooked with brown sauce, sesame seeds and chile oil until crispy and caramelized at the edges and achingly tender at the core.
Our final dish featured two varieties of mushrooms, one of them enoki, plus bok choy. It was a light but flavorful conclusion.
After 24 dishes, we were all impressed with Nei Chia Ji’s less-is-more approach. It was obvious that the ingredients were impeccably sourced. It was also impressive how the chef alternated rich and light, mild and spicy. Nei Chia Ji did such a good job in the kitchen, he even managed to convert me to tofu. Well, for one night anyway.
Note: Our meal at Jai Yun was in the previous space at 923 Pacific Avenue. The restaurant relocated in 2008.
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