Jai Yun: Luxurious Chinese Banquet Cuisine [MOVED]

Chinese Restaurant San Francisco

A humble exterior belies Jai Yun's grand Chinese dining experience indoors.

REVIEW CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE

ROUND THREE

Our third course dishes were titled “Radish,” “Relish,” “Cabbage” and “Duck.”

Tiny marinated red radishes had nice crunchy texture and a mild sweetness.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Relish featured finely chopped green peppers and onions.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Crisp cabbage strands were tossed with chile oil and julienned red chilies.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Sliced duck was served on the bone, skin on and luscious.

We began with 12 cold dishes, and finished with a dozen more HOT DISHES:

Chinese Food San Francisco

Thin-sliced abalone was scrambled with egg whites and incredible. Abalone is a highly-prized ingredient in China, though I’ve never understood why, until now. At Japanese restaurants, the only abalone I ever tasted was overly-chewy. This abalone was miraculously tender.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Slices of Gluten, wheat that’s been stripped of its starch and pressed, were tossed with green and red peppers, leeks and ginger slivers. By the second or third bite, I began to appreciate gluten’s unfamiliar sponge-like texture.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Shrimp simply sautéed with garbanzo beans and green, red and yellow peppers. Garbanzo beans aren’t typically included in Chinese food, but they worked well with the shrimp.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Soybeans incorporated razor-thin tofu strands, greens and jujubes (tiny red Chinese dates).

Chinese Food San Francisco

Silky hacks of fish, possibly cod, sautéed with corn kernels, peas and red peppers, a nice summer preparation.

Chinese Food San Francisco

This winter melon square was fairly pungent, topped with ground pork, chilies and fermented shrimp and plated atop strands of seaweed. Coming off the mild fish, I liked the dish’s aggressive flavor, though Jane called this her “No Dish.”

Chinese Food San Francisco

Pork leg in brown sauce was kind of like a pork osso bucco, with one-inch layer of fat protecting the tender nuggets of hog meat.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Crispy Chinese celery was tossed with julienned tofu, red pepper and purple onion. After the rich pork leg, this dish offered relief.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Kung pao chicken featured purple onion and yellow pepper and was spicier than the typical version.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Translucent flat noodles were stir-fried with scallions and rich, thin-sliced barbecue pork. The pork featured concentrated hog flavor, which I really enjoyed.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Eggplant was cooked with brown sauce, sesame seeds and chile oil until crispy and caramelized at the edges and achingly tender at the core.

Chinese Food San Francisco

Our final dish featured two varieties of mushrooms, one of them enoki, plus bok choy. It was a light but flavorful conclusion.

After 24 dishes, we were all impressed with Nei Chia Ji’s less-is-more approach. It was obvious that the ingredients were impeccably sourced. It was also impressive how the chef alternated rich and light, mild and spicy. Nei Chia Ji did such a good job in the kitchen, he even managed to convert me to tofu. Well, for one night anyway.

Note: Our meal at Jai Yun was in the previous space at 923 Pacific Avenue. The restaurant relocated in 2008.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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