Carlos Salgado defies agua fresca conventions at Taco Maria in Costa Mesa’s OC Mart Mix. For the first time, it’s now possible to experience his progressive Mexican cooking apart from a food truck setting. At most taquerias, good luck finding anything more than horchata, tamarindo or Jamaica, which I’ll call the Big 3. At Taco Maria, which Salgado and sister Silvia run together, their agua selection is actually smaller, just a single “fresh water.” However, this offering is decidedly more distinctive.

During my inaugural visit to the sleek Costa Mesa space with a citrus wood grill and warm wood furniture, the vivid agua fresca consisted of tart plum hibiscus with a modicum of sweetness, a judicious peppercorn punch and an oh-so Mexican cilantro garnish. Since Taco Maria staffers make their aguas to order, my server even provided the option of either flat or sparkling water. Agua con gas? Por supuesto.