Company – New York, NY [CLOSED]

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Pizzeria New York City

Sullivan Street baker Jim Lahey infuses Company with more personality than the name implies.

Even at 5 PM, when the doors open for business, there was a lot of buzz at the sparkling pizza restaurant Company as it quickly filled up with a trendy looking crowd. The whole place looks trendy in fact, as does the menu. But happily, Company delivers. Is it pizza? Well sort of.

We started with the pizza bianco which was a Neapolitan style disc of charred pizza crust, served plain, and with ricotta cheese on the side. It was scrumptious. The dough is outstanding tasting, but it struck us as glorified bread. We ordered the Popeye (spinach, gruyere and buffalo mozzarella) which was uniquely delicious in our experience – a great taste combination. A pie with sausage and fennel and buffalo mozzarella was also a winner. We believe that Company, with its pizzas that have choucroute kinds of toppings and mixtures, has more in common with the classic (and almost unknown in the U.S.) Alsatian Tarte Flambe, than a Neapolitan pizza, although the thick dough is more reminiscent of the Italian pie than the very thin and unobtrusive Tarte Flambe crust that we had in Strasbourg. (It is surprising to us that no one has tried to replicate the classic Tarte Flambe in the U.S. After all it is a French creation, and as the French are the undisputed lords of cooking on this planet, attention must be paid). In any case, classic Italian style pizza or no, Company is a winner and we will be back.

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