Rufus T. Buell and brother Alonzo (his short-term partner) bought a land grant from Jose Maria Covarrubias and Joaquin Carrillo in 1867 and founded a multifaceted ranch, where he lived until his death in 1905. His namesake town, Buellton, is now a Central Coast community with just over 5,000 residents that has played a vital role in the surrounding Santa Ynez Valley’s development over ensuing decades. Remarkably, Buellton didn’t become an incorporated city until 1992.
Buellton straddles the 101 and 246 freeways at a high-traffic crossroads. Lompoc and Vandenberg Space Force Base are located due west, Los Olivos and Los Alamos are directly north, and Solvang and Santa Ynez are eastern neighbors. Writer-director Alexander Payne immortalized Buellton and wine country in his 2004 movie, “Sideways.” I stayed at Sideways Inn, across from the building’s windmill and two doors down from Room 234, where Miles (Paul Giamatti) and Jack (Thomas Haden Church) crashed during their outrageous adventure. In 2004, this boutique hotel was still a Days Inn.
Discover Buellton invited me to explore the area and I had some surprising experiences during my stay that went beyond food, beer and spirits. For instance, iconic restaurant Pea Soup Andersen’s – you’ve probably driven by the billboards on the 101 – ran Andersen’s Animal Park from 1970-1974. Ted & Pat Derby trained animals that appeared in TV shows and movies and retired here. One archival photo was simply beyond belief by today’s liability driven standards, showing a 600-pound bear named Sweet William nuzzling a girl. We’ll never see another petting zoo like that.
In the past, I’ve also enjoyed stops at Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co., but didn’t make it there this trip. In the future, I also hope to check out The Tavern at Zaca Creek, which weren’t open during my stay. Enough about what I didn’t experience in Buellton. Instead, see the food and drinks I did experience and recommend in Servicetown, USA.
DorWood Distillery founder Jay Lockwood says, “We take a lot of stuff out that corporate alcohol keeps in.” This approach yields smooth sips for spirits like clear, mesquite smoked White Hawk Malt Whiskey and spicy Habapeño Limoncello, plus cocktails.
Sarah and Loren Ollenburger rebranded God’s Country Provisions as Drover’s Doughnuts. The couple still sells creative, flavorful donuts like Blackberry Syrah, Strawberry Sprinkle, and Blue Razz Beach, which they top with “sand,” a beach towel and umbrella.
John Oltman and his son (also John) serve crisp, lacy, dosa like pancakes with whipped butter at Ellen’s Pancake House. I recommend pancakes with chopped and griddled Danish sausage. Their cinnamon roll is also terrific “when available.”
Feather & Fire is a good option for people staying at Flying Flags RV resort or nearby. They serve rotisserie chicken and pizza, including a fun Buffalo chicken mash-up, and serve hearty rotisserie chicken Cobb salad with herb vinaigrette.
Firestone Walker Brewing Co. is one of my all time favorite breweries. Molly Reed presides over their wild ale program at the Barrelworks, barrel-aging knockout ales like Blue Love (fermented with blueberries) and Big Mood (apricots and white wine grapes).
Giorgio Curti serves detour worthy Italian food from his Giorgio’s at Parkway counter within Parkway Market, including spicy shrimp rigatoni. wood-fired garlic bread – let’s be real, that’s pizza – and pistachio ricotta cake.
Frank Ostini’s parents founded the original Hitching Post in Casmalia (which brother Bill now runs) and he steers The Hitching Post 2. Steak grilled over red oak is the star, but don’t sleep on smoked duck breast, Texas quail or Gray Hartley’s wines.
Industrial Eats is a longtime favorite for Central Coast fare and wood-fired pizza. “Trust Us” is a fun $30 option for 3 mystery courses. “Grilled fish on sticks” was another gem, featuring sand dabs, mackerel, dashi vin. Sriracha aioli. and summer stone fruit.
Ashley and Nik Ramirez popped up with Na Na Thai at Bar Le Côte in Los Olivos before partnering with Companion Hospitality on a vivid restaurant right by the 101 freeway. Early highlights included potent kuaytiaw reua (Bangkok style boat noodle soup) draped with rosy sliced eye of round and delicate gung tod (fried shrimp) served with nam jim (punchy dipping sauce).
Demetrios “Jimmy” Loizides and wife Karen run Vega Vineyard & Farm on a historic property featuring an adobe home that dates to 1853. Local legend Steve Clifton’s wine (definitely get a flight) complements ultra-local food from chef Christopher Rossi.
EATING HISTORY
For reasons beyond comprehension, pea soup became Pea Soup Andersen’s most popular dish after Anton Andersen founded the restaurant in 1924. I can’t vouch for their other menu items, but their fully dressed pea soup is worth trying if you’re in Buellton.
WHAT TO DO BETWEEN MEALS (shoutout to A.J. Liebling)
Mendenhall’s Museum of Gasoline Pumps & Petroliana showcases an eye-popping collection of vintage cars, gas pumps and racing memorabilia that the family has gathered for over 50 years. Call (805) 689-2402 to schedule a tour with Mark and Vickie.
Feed towering ostriches and emus at OstrichLand, an interactive farm that “The Simpsons” hilariously depicted as Ostrich World.
Santa Ynez Valley Botanic Garden is a relaxing oasis that encourages ecological education next to RiverView Park. The garden also houses log sculptures and a mural that depicts a traditional Chumash story about a coyote and salmon that preaches conservation.
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