Malls rarely get ritzier than Crystal Cove Shopping Center on Newport Coast. That’s where fashionable Orange County residents descend to consume on a grand scale, whether it’s clothes or culinary delights. Bluefin is a modern sushi bar from Chef Takashi Abe. A cascading water wall backs skilled knife wielders. Of course the seafood is pristine. However, Chef Abe really took me by surprise with his drinkable dessert.

To celebrate the end of summer, Chef Abe featured honeydew melon in myriad ways to deliver a refreshing float. He started by balling and juicing sweet green melon and adding the results to the kind of glass you’d find in a soda fountain. In went soda water, honey, creamy vanilla gelato, sweetened condensed milk and house-made melon sorbet. Melon foam topped the cool creation. A single mint leaf and sweet-tart raspberry garnish added colorful contrast. This is one of the best desserts I’ve ever enjoyed at a sushi bar.