Baa! It’s what’s for breakfast. Well, not quite, but you can eat every part of the sheep except for the sound at Aqui es Texcoco, which has been a big part of the Chula Vista culinary landscape since 2008, when barbacoa specialist Francisco “Paco” Perez set up shop in a strip mall. His mom started operating a weekend-only barbacoa emporium in 1990, due south in Tijuana, and he carries on the family tradition, which honors the city of Texcoco in the State of Mexico.
The logo is a sleeping lamb in a basket, resting on a bed of maguey leaves, awaiting his delicious fate. Paco Perez doesn’t pit roast lamb in those leaves, as his mom does in Tijuana, but he still produces superior sheep, which isn’t just limited to weekends.
The man who introduced me to Aqui es Texcoco is Street Gourmet LA founder Bill Esparza, and he was coincidentally in San Diego when we were, so he joined us for breakfast. With Esparza, no meal is exempt from alcohol consumption, so we started our Mexican breakfast with frothy blackberry pulque, which Paco Perez imports from Hidalgo.
Perez roasted a Lamb Head ($17) whole and served the skull with corn tortillas, powerful bundled summer cilantro (aka papalo) and onion. Tender meat pulled easily from crannies, sockets and jaws, including tongue, cheek and eye.
Aqui es Texcoco provides three salsas: mild, sweeter pasilla; tangy tomatillo with jalapeno (or habanero, if necessary to achieve the proper spice level); and a kick-y roasted tomato, tomatillo and jalapeno slurry.