I had an early affinity for Osteria La Buca, a neighborhood Italian restaurant that Graham Snyder opened in 2005, right when I was starting to write professionally about restaurants and worked nearby at Sunset Gower...
When we showed up at Osteria La Buca on April 27, we never expected to be led down a back alley and into a windowless wood-walled room. However, that’s exactly where we found host bartender...