Tlayuda L.A. Cesina Tlayuda

Mexican Food Los Angeles"

At Tlayuda LA, a pair of couples are piling Oaxaca-style toasted tortillas with a wealth of ingredients in a colorful setting. Chef Martha Cruz and husband Abelardo hail from Oaxaca. Over the summer, they teamed with Laura Guerrero and husband Alejandro Tinoco, who own a tattoo parlor in Mission Hills, to launch Oaxacan restaurant in east Hollywood. The space features blue and yellow walls lined with art, six two-tops, and wood counters facing the street. Expect a pretty sizable menu of tacos and Oaxacan classics, but tlayudas are clearly the stars.

Tlayuda L.A. doesn’t make chorizo in-house, but they do fire-roast thin-sliced, marinated beef and “artfully” dry with sea salt to produce Tasajo, and marinate pork in chile powder before smoking and drying with sea salt to produce Cesina. I prefer cesina, featuring savory, fire red pork. My Double Meat Tlayuda ($12.99) came with a choice of blue corn or white corn tortilla. I chose blue corn, which was thin and chewy in the middle, with crisp, toasty edges. They slathered on a layer of black beans pureed with salt and garlic. Crisp iceberg lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado, and salty shredded Oaxacan cheese also join the fun. Each tlayuda comes with two house-made salsas, both crafted with garlic, Serrano chiles and salt. Green, also made with tomatillo and avocado, is smoother and spicier than the red salsa, which is tamed by tomato.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.

Address: 5450 Santa Monica Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90029

Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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