Getting a handle on Korean restaurants that specialize in dishes that aren’t DIY has become a trickier proposition, with increasing regionalization and menus that can span several pages, plus wall-mounted specials that are strictly in Hangul. At Olympic Cheonggukjang, the approach was clear enough, with an emphasis on their namesake soybean stew, Chung Guk Jang, but it wasn’t until after I ordered that other dishes emanated from the kitchen and became imperative. Clearly return trips were in order, and they paid larger dividends.
We ordered Daeji Bulgogi ($13.49) on our first visit, resulting in pork slices marinated in gochujang and soy sauce, pan-fried with onions and scallions until crusty and caramelized. This was a solid version of a nearly ubiquitous Korean dish.
They marinate large chunks of beef in soy sauce, sugar, garlic and “other vegetables” and cook the meat low and slow until it becomes tender and infused with radiant flavor. This savory stew is available spicy or non-spicy. Of course order it spicy, which actually isn’t very fierce. Olympic Cheonggukjang should consider bottling the remarkable sauce, and if they don’t, you’ll want to spoon it over rice until every last drop is gone.
The cloudy beef bone soup already has scallions in it, unlike Young Dong, and it’s possible to spoon in salt, but kimchi doesn’t seem to fit in the case of this textural tour de force.
A number of restaurants pan-fry corvina in Los Angeles, but Olympic Cheonggukjang’s owners apparently source the small fish straight from Korea, elevating the quality of the dish. We became believers in their Jogi Gui ($12.75) on a third visit. The corvina was the only dish we hadn’t ordered yet from the menu’s front page, and it was simple but very good, featuring crisp skin with good give and sticky pieces of flaky white fish.
Koreatown has a number of homey, hearty restaurants, and Olympic Cheonggukjang warrants inclusion in that category’s regular rotation for their galbi jjim, jogi gui and ooh jok tang.
Blog Comments
Peter Kang
August 1, 2013 at 12:15 AM
I have eaten several times at the Olympic Cheonggukjang whenever I m in the area. There is no question that their stew is one of the best if not the best in K town. I say this because I have eaten at just about everywhere during the last 40 years of frequenting the area.
Joshua Lurie
August 2, 2013 at 3:21 PM
Dr. Kang, great to hear from you. I’d be interested to hear what other restaurants you enjoy in Koreatown. I imagine Matt shares some of your favorites.
Peter Kang
August 3, 2013 at 6:59 AM
Yesterday, I enjoyed a great traditional meal at Youngsusan at Olympic and Vermont. It’s a little pricy but a great way to experience a food presentation for what Kings used to eat at ancient times. Various appetizers and main course that quite honestly you will have difficulty finishing due to the amount of food that continues to flow during the meat time. The food is immaculately presented and is very delicious. If you haven’t had it, we will have to try it soon.
Joshua Lurie
August 3, 2013 at 2:11 PM
Dr. Kang, I had a chance to try Yongsusan years ago, but not the top-level menu. It sounds like a return trip is well worth it.
Peter Kang
August 3, 2013 at 4:46 PM
Let me know when you are ready. Lets visit there with Matthew for an updated experience..