It’s been awhile since I’ve been excited about a food. It took the united efforts of Gemma Matsuyama, Chris Chi (ex Bestia), Mavis J. Sanders (ex Blue Hill at Stone Barns), Qudoe Lee and Phil Moses to temporarily draw me away from the restaurant beat. I found their grain-fueled food truck, Pico House, parked at jam-packed Culver City climbing gym Cliffs of Id.

I enjoyed my bowls of Robertson Short Rib and Crenshaw Meatballs, but Ugly Fruit Drank was the concept that caught my attention. The Pico House team scours the farmers market for seconds, imperfect fruits with depreciated value, and transform them into still or sparkling fruit juice with big chunks of fruit at the bottom of each Greenware cup. The fruit is based on whatever fruits they find. I enjoyed peach lemon, though they’ve also made versions with grapes and blueberries. I really appreciate the idea of market-driven beverage that’s simultaneously flavorful and eco-friendly, and like Ugly Fruit Drank even more in practice.