Greg Dunmore, who worked at lauded restaurants like Bacchanalia in Atlanta and Ame in San Francisco, found inspiration in a bygone Japanese yakitori and opened Nojo in Hayes Valley. His “San Francisco izakaya” resides in the shadow of the San Francisco Symphony and SF JAZZ and features a glass front, wood tables and counters, and colorful paintings. Yakitori is indeed a star. My family’s dinner was particularly strong on chicken parts, including rarely seen knees. However, bincho has other applications, including deluxe kushiyaki, which refers to other grilled items that have nothing to do with chicken.

Pork & Purple Barley Rice Ball ($6) is a massive rice ball the size of a grapefruit that’s studded with purple barley and smoky from burning white charcoal. On top, you’ll find a generous layer of mustard miso, which is umami-rich, spicy, and baked until a crust forms. Pierce the ball’s thick wall and find juicy, well-seasoned ground pork. Mix in some of the mustard miso and crunchy fresh-cut scallions, and you’re in store for a serious snack.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.