At Il Grano in West LA, chef-owner Sal Marino continues to churn out interesting Italian dishes inspired by seasonal California ingredients in an airy setting. He was born in L.A., but grew up in Naples and was raised in a restaurant family – brother Mario now runs Marino Ristorante in Hollywood. He recently invited me to lunch after picking produce and herbs from his home garden and shopping at the market, which are both regular rituals. Marino served a signature crudo with tuna and shaved almonds, Tulare cherry gazpacho, spaghetti with mushrooms, English peas and pancetta, and closed the show with a fish market find.

Marino retreated into the kitchen and came back carrying two visually arresting plates, both starring pan-seared beltfish. Crisp-skinned, well seasoned fillets from a shimmering silver fish that also goes by cutlassfish joined sauteed Bloomsdale spinach, fried baby artichokes, earthy green garbanzo beans, green garbanzo puree and vivid yellow mustard flower. This dish was a refreshing blast of spring, and a reminder that Il Grano remains relevant.