Is it worth eating Korean food outside of Koreatown in L.A. County? That’s a question that once again crossed my mind while driving south along Normandie Avenue into Harbor City, the haunting image of an illuminated oil refinery in the distance, looking like something in “Tron.” A red and blue sign with white Hangul lettering and the words “Korean Restaurant” signaled our arrival at Nae Ko Hyang, a tiny restaurant with only nine tables.

Nae Ko Hyang’s panchan were above average, with spinach leaves tossed with sesame oil, punchy fermented radish cubes, chile’d bean sprouts and more. Tteok Madukguk, rice cake and mandu soup in murky ox bone broth, was plenty salty. However, Osam Bulgogi ($15.95) made a convincing argument for South Bay Korean efficacy. A sizzling platter sported tender, crisp-edged squid tentacles, thin slices of fat rimmed pork belly, and raw onions, all slathered in deep red gochujang that had a hint of sweetness, but primarily savory punch. The flavor kept building, so by the time the onions began to caramelize in gochujang-spiked pork fat, I was scooping up the last of the steamed rice with my chopsticks to keep pace with the lingering pork richness. South Bay Korean food may be an occasional alternative after all.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.