Even on B Street, which is lined with so many dining options that it’s known locally as “the cafeteria,” China Bee still stands out thanks to its aqua awning, white tile front, and of course the food. The longtime favorite of L.A. based coffee pro Yeekai Lim, who recommended the restaurant, has been open for almost 20 years. Taiwan natives David and Ellen Bee debuted in downtown San Mateo and daughter Nancy, who has a Master’s in Education, helps her parents carry on the family tradition.

The space has a retro feel, with purple carpet, mirrors on one wall, water colors of bamboo and flowers on the other, and not many other decor talking points.

Wonton with chile oil ($4.95) featured plump pork morsels nestled in thin sheathes of flour noodle wrapper. Some kick came courtesy of a garlicky chile oil bath.

Weekend Specials included a number of traditional Taiwanese options. For instance: sesame bread with beef ($3.50) fairly simple, flaky, sesame-studded pastry wrapped around lean sheets of braised beef shank, along with cilantro and scallions. It was pretty good, but it probably would have been a better idea to have ordered something different, since it had same protein as their noodle soup.

Spicy Beef Noodle Soup ($6.95) was minimalist, but still lip tingling, with crisp bok choy, braised chunks of beef shank and firm fettuccine-like egg noodles in a murky brown broth starring 10-hour beef bone stock that was redolent of star anise and “family secrets.” Nancy said her father chose a lean cut of beef. The chunks of shank were rimmed with fat, but probably too lean for me. It’s an interesting dilemma, since a fattier cut of beef would have had even more flavorful, but also would have been richer. The broth had good flavor, and I felt good after eating the soup – which has become increasingly important lately – but fattier thoughts certainly crossed my mind.

It will be interesting to try more stops in “the cafeteria,” but China Bee and nearby Ramen Dojo combined for a good start to my San Mateo explorations.